This is how you manage your pet birds

If you keep companion birds for companionship or hobby, you must know and comply with the animal welfare regulations for companion birds. Among other things, you must keep in mind that most birds are social animals. The main rule is that they should be kept in pairs or groups. If you still keep a bird alone, it must have close social contact with a human.

A stimulating environment is an important factor for birds to be able to behave naturally. The environment in the cage or aviary (birdhouse) should be such that the birds can occupy themselves. Things such as flying between sticks, climbing, gnawing on things or looking for food, stimulates them to carry out their natural behaviors. Every day, the birds should also have access to a space where they can fly freely.

Feed and water

Different bird species have different needs when it comes to food. You should therefore adapt the amount of feed and the type of feed to the species and the way in which you keep the birds. If you keep several birds together, all birds should be able to reach the feed without interfering with each other.

Pet birds should have free access to water. Bird species that have high metabolism should have free access to feed. Species shorter than 15 cm and species that mainly eat nectar, fruits or insects often have high metabolism.

Birds with special needs should also have free access to feed. These include birds that are kept outdoors during the cold season. Their feed must contain enough energy for the bird to produce heat itself.

Some of the bird species we hold for companionship and hobby need to have access to digestive gravel. This is especially true of the species that eat seeds without first peeling them.

wing Trimming

For young birds to learn to fly, all wing trimming is prohibited for birds less than a year old. Even for adult birds, flight ability may only be limited if they cannot be trained to use a flying harness. In these cases, wing trimming may occur once a year, e.g. to enable outdoor cages in the summer.

Birds outdoors

It is allowed to keep companion birds outdoors. If the temperature is lower than the species is used to in the wild, the birds must be given time to get used to the lower temperature. They should always have access to a room where the temperature is higher than 0 degrees. You must also make sure that the birds are protected from rain and wind and that they have access to shade during the summer.

It is permissible to use a so-called flying harness. The flight leash must be handled by a human and must not be attached to a fixed object. It is not allowed to attach a bird using a foot ring.

If your birds get sick

A bird that is ill, injured or shows other signs of ill health should be given the necessary care as soon as possible. Contact a veterinarian if you notice that your bird is not feeling well.

Avoid infection

With the right knowledge, you can reduce the risk of infection between animals and between animals and humans. To the right you will find information on hygiene rules for keepers.

The environment where the birds are kept

Minimum space

Pet birds need plenty of room to move around. The width of the space where a bird resides must be at least twice the length of the bird, but at least 45 cm.

The birds should have perches

Most companion birds need perches. The exception is species that only live on the ground. The perches should give the birds the longest possible flight distance in the cage. The sticks should be positioned so that spillage does not contaminate the animal's feed and water and be adapted to the size of the bird's feet. It is good if there are perches that are different rough so the bird can exercise its grip.

Also consider this:

• In cages for terrestrial birds , the bottom of the cage should be covered with litter. The interior of the cage should allow the birds to seek protection.
• Bathing cage birds should have clean bathing water. The bird bath must not be deeper than the birds bottom.
• Birds that are sand-bathing should have access to clean and fine-grained sand.
• You can read more about the regulations in the Swedish Agricultural Agency's regulations and general advice on the keeping, breeding and sale of pets. The regulations are on the right.  

In some cases, you need a permit

If you carry out professional activities with birds, you need permission from the county administrative board. The same applies if you rent, store or feed other cages to a greater extent. An operation is more extensive when it is run with six or more storage areas.

Controls

The county administrative boards are responsible for the local control of the Animal Protection Act.

Do You Need To Get A Parakeet A Mate?

A second parakeet can keep you from getting lonely at first.

Parakeets are social creatures that like humans and other birds. Keep a parakeet from becoming lonely by spending a lot of one-on-one time with him or by getting your budgie a companion.

Solo Bird

The main reason why you might prefer to have just one parakeet is that a solo bird is generally more loving towards its owner. When you stay alone, a parakeet will see you together in a flock. However, the Parakeet is a social being, so it will be lonely if alone all day. If you work full time, you are not sure if you can give your bird sufficient attention after work, since your schedule is busy you should get two birds to be fair to your pet.

Two birds

When you're not around to give your budgie stimulus and social time, a second bird can perform that role for you. And when you are at home, you will enjoy the presumption that two parakeets will cook. If you socialize a bird before you get your second bird, the birds are both more likely to associate with you and enjoy human companionship. If you get both parakeets at the same time, they will look out for each other for companions and rely less on your attention.

Gender Roles

Women are the dominant parakeet gender, so avoid getting two female birds. They should probably squabble. Male parakeets tend to go well together, so if you have a male bird you can get him the same sex friend. If you want a male parakeet and a female, you will need a large cage that will give the male room to escape the female if she rejects her ard. A man and woman could measure, so consider whether you want to raise bird children before you get an opposite sex couple. "

Tip

Whether you choose a bird or two, you choose a cage with plenty of space. For a bird, look for a cage that is 24 inches long, width and height. For two birds, look for a higher cage that has plenty of perch - especially if you choose to keep a male and a female bird together. Your bird should be able to fly from one side of the cage to the other to enjoy a sense of freedom.

Complete Pet Birds Care Tips

Tips for taming your bird

Start by placing the cage in a place where the birds quickly arrive. Make sure it is close to a wall so that they do not feel "surrounded" by possible dangers, and have a secure corner to hide in. Set the cage at eye level to prevent arms and head from being stretched across the cage at all times. The budgies are very stressed by things moving over their heads.

Start by sitting or standing with your face near the cage, and talk gently with the birds. After the first day, raise your hand so they can see it inside the cage. After a while, ranging from two to seven days, the hand will be associated with your soft, confident voice.

When replenishing food and water, always talk to your birds. If you want to teach your birds to speak, try using some words or phrases.

Fingertrain a bud

To make sure the bird thinks your finger is the best perch in the world, you may need to bribe it with millet. Undulates love it, but make sure to only use it as candy, as it has high fat content. In small quantities, it is like the birds' equivalent of chocolate!

Place a twig between the thumb and base of your index finger. Extend your hand into the cage, making sure your finger is close to where the bird is sitting, but that they can only access the millet through your finger. If they can squat while sitting on a perch or on the grill in the cage, the exercise will take longer. When you extend your hand for the first time, the bird will probably just sit in a corner and watch. Undulates need time to get used to new things, and your hand is an intrusion. But with a little time and patience, things will go well!

Hold your hand in the cage for five minutes, with your finger slightly away from where the buds are. Repeat this several times during a day, with at least half an hour between times. In the end, your bird will not be able to resist the millet, and will move closer. Once again, make sure they can't access without using your finger. Don't chase around the buds in the cage to get them to jump on your finger, they'll just scare them, and the training will take longer.

When your bird is used to your hand in the cage, you can speed up the process slightly by moving your finger at the very top of the leg of buds. Then they will jump on without thinking about it. After a week, you can use the same technique to get them to sit on your finger, though without the millet. At some point (and when there is a change from bird to bird) they will not be able to resist putting on your finger.

This is what you are aiming for. The budger now thinks of your finger as his favorite sitting stick, and will happily return to it, even outside the cage.

Release the buds

After you have gone through the steps above, you will be able to release your loot. Just make sure you have arranged the following things and prepared the room for the conifer exploration:

• Cover windows with curtains so that they do not fly into the glass and injure themselves
• Cover fireplaces and chimneys
• Close all doors and windows
• Put away delicate trinkets as there is a risk that they are dangerous
• Make sure there are no dogs, cats or children in the room. If the budgets are scared, you will need to practice again
• Make sure there are some places the birds can sit on, preferably high up in the room. Curtain rods and bookshelves are good places. Your bird will probably be stressed during the first flights, and will probably be sitting somewhere out of reach
• All because they will sit on chairs, furniture, on the floor and on you. Make sure it's okay for them to sit pretty much anywhere because flapping arms to get them away from anything will be creepy
• Show some toys in the room, eg a ping pong ball on the floor or a climbing stand on a table
• Remove all plants and flowers you do not want to be eaten
• Turn off possible fans
• Cover or remove mirrors. Not everything happens, but some birds can fly into them

Get out a bird out the cage

The first time outside the cage, your bird will probably jump off your hand as you try to take it out of the cage. If they seem stressed when you extend your hand again, it's best to leave them. Continue training inside the cage and try again later.

Many birds head straight to the cage when taken out for the first time. Let them sit there while exploring their surroundings, and give them a few pieces of candy to make them feel safe and encouraged. Talk calmly, and offer them to jump on your finger again after a while. Try to move them further away from the cage, and let them flaunt at any time.


If they fly straight back into the cage, try to get them on your finger again, or close the cage door. It is best not to let them move in and out of the cage at this stage. If they do, they may begin to see your hand as a threat rather than a way to get out into the world.

Get the buds back in the cage

When your bird is finger-trained you will be able to control them outside the cage. When it's time to go back into the cage, stretch out your finger. When you start, you may need to pat your stomach or use the millet. And, as I said, it's best not to let them go in or out of the cage without sitting on your finger.

An untamed lullaby who manages to escape from the cage is a more difficult situation. The best thing you can do is put the bird's favorite food inside the cage and leave the door open. Eventually they will come back. If you have more than one bird, it can be even more difficult, because by leaving the door open, the other birds can be accommodated. If you are unable to attract the budgies to your finger, you may need to use a net (read more in the escaped budgies section ).

Tame a new bud

A new bird will take a few days to get used to the new surroundings, and some adapt more quickly than others. During the first few days it is best to leave them alone as much as possible. Eventually you will start to replace the toys in the cage regularly, but do not do it the first week.

The response of the birds to your presence depends on where they come from. A young bird you bought from a breeder may not have had much human contact, except when they were put in a box to be transported to your home. A bird that has spent a few weeks in a pet store will be more comfortable with human sounds and movements. In any case, it's best to take it easy the first few days. Always assume that you start from nothing.

Tame a young bird

A bird cannot be tamed until after leaving her mother, at about six weeks of age. Before that, they will be completely dependent on their parents, and will not appreciate your presence. When the bird eats itself you can start taming them.


In addition to these first weeks, a young budger is much easier to tame than an older one. They will not have created their own habits and do not know what is normal, so they will be open most of the time. Unlike older birds, they will not remember a time before the big, friendly face and the big hand that sticks into the cage sometimes.

Tame an older bird

Older birds can be more difficult. A budger who has been sitting in the back of a cage in a pet store for six months can be difficult to win over. Being transported to a quieter cage with a very different world outside the grid, and a person constantly talking and moving near the cage can be traumatic.

There is no way to speed up the tampering process. Just keep talking quietly with your bird, and approach slowly and without posing any threat, then the birds will probably accept you in time.

Tame a female

If you start taming a female at an early age, there should be no major differences from taming a male. It is true that older undulates are more difficult to tame, but this applies to both genders. Females often bite more than males, so it can be a problem if you are a little nervous. They also tend to bite harder, sometimes so that it actually hurts really.

Females can be difficult to handle during mating season, and even a tight bird can be difficult to approach. She can become fidget-focused, which makes your hand in the cage an intrusion. Keep biting yourself as usual, the hormones will soon disappear. If your bird is unusually nervous or in the fight, you can try training with a sheathed stick rather than a finger. Also check what she eats, too much protein can stimulate mating will.

Males also become hormone depleted during mating periods, but it is uncommon for them to become "untamed" during this time.

Tame a wild lullaby

In Australia, occasional undulates are obtained from the wilderness. They are not genetically different from pet owls, but they will be more difficult to tame. If you do not live in Australia, you are unlikely to come across a wild bird.

All birds that are older than six months and have had no contact with humans will behave like a wild bird. Winning their trust will take time and patience, but if you are willing to give it a few months, or even a year, you will end up being friends.

Tame a couple of birds

To tame two birds at the same time is no more difficult than taming one. The moral support they give each other can even speed up the process. When the braver of the two has jumped on your finger for the first time, it is likely that the other will do the same. If you are unlucky and have a very panicked bird in your couple, they may take longer. But as I said, there is no good way to speed up the process, but keep calm and careful, and it will work.

Teach the birds not to bite

A cutting bird can be a problem. You will not want to hold them, which limits the chances of taming them. Undulates are usually very kind by nature, but some individuals are difficult to win over for some reason.

You don't have to give up though. The following things can help you on your way to a non-biting bird.

• Is your bird finger-trained? If not they will feel uncomfortable if your hand gets too close, and will therefore bite.
• Has your bird been recently moved to a new cage, new room or new house? It will worry them for a while, so get them in place a few days before you put your hand in the cage.
• Bite them at certain times? Write down when your bird usually attacks, and see if you can see a pattern. It may be that they are afraid of something (other pets, noisy children, sounds from outside), they may be tired or hungry, or it may be something else that triggers the attack.
• Do you make a big deal of them biting? Try to ignore it. Remove the hand or put it back in the cage. Too much sound and movement will make them think that the bite is paying attention, and it can cause them to continue. Screaming can also make them stressful, which in turn can make them bite again.
• Has anyone said, or have you read somewhere, that you should punish a bird who bites? It's a worthless piece of advice, ignore it! All it does is that you are seen as a threat, and you will have a lot of trouble getting their trust back.
• Have you distracted the birds with toys and goodies when they bite? It can go wrong because they think they are rewarded for biting. So guess what they will do next time you stick your hand in?
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• Do the birds receive a varied diet, and food regularly? A bird tired of its diet can get angry.
• Can they sleep at night, without lights, barking dogs and other disturbing moments? Like all other animals, a budger who has not been able to sleep will not be in a good mood. A cover over the cage can help.
• Do you keep them in the right way? A budger must always jump on your finger yourself. Never grab them by any means.
• Do they have enough space to fly freely? A room filled with people who duck, wave their arms or follow birds will make them anxious and panicked.
• Do they have enough toys, and are they replaced regularly? They need stimulation and can easily get bored. It will make them annoyed, which in turn will probably cause more biting.
• Do they have a friend in the cage, or get them all the attention they need? A bored and lonely bird can start biting for you to see them.

Parrot cage advice - The best home for our parrots

Perches

In the cage there should be  perches  of different materials and different diameters. It is important for chlorine and foot pads that the diameter be varied. Otherwise, slight pressure ulcers occur on the underside of the feet, and the bird is unable to grind its claws by itself. The pins should preferably be placed both across the cage and along the cage. The sticks should be cleaned daily!

Also, remember not to place the sticks above the food and water bowls.

Food and water bowls

The best cage design for  food and water  bowls allows the bowls to protrude outside the cage through a small window. The advantage of this construction is that the bird cannot contaminate the bowls. Use a water bowl rather than a water bottle. The design of the bottles often causes contamination to accumulate in the neck of the bottle. Food and water bowls should also be cleaned daily!

The basis

The substrate  on the cage base may consist of newsprint or paper towels. This is then easy to replace daily. Previously, it was always recommended that the bird cage's substrate be sand. This is so that the bird can pick up grains of sand to aid digestion. We now know that parrot birds, unlike chicken birds, do not need sand for digestion. On the contrary, it can often pose a risk of sand packing in the stomach or intestine.

Important with lots of toys

A very neglected area in the cage interior is toys . Most birds get their cage decorated with two perches, a food and water bowl, a mirror and a bell. Then we expect the bird to thrive and stay busy! Remember, some scientists claim that our parrot birds have an intelligence equivalent to a child between 2-5 years. For example, how long would a 3-year-old keep himself occupied with a mirror and a bell without having mental problems !!!

All parrot birds must be given a large assortment of toys. However, not all toys should be in the cage all the time. These should be varied often so that they are in the cage for a maximum of one week at a time. Exceptions can be made if the bird has an absolute favorite thing. In that case, it can always be in the cage, while other toys are varied. Many toys can be made yourself. Use wood, sticks, cones, leather ropes, ox skin (dog toys), cotton or hemp rope. And preferably fruits and vegetables. Wooden toys for children also often work well for birds. The basic rule  is to think about varying the supply a lot. Used:

• Different colors.
• Various forms.
• Toys that give off sound.
• Toys to bite / tear.
• Edible toys.
• Toys to peel with the tongue on or manipulate with the feet.

In addition to a well-decorated cage, it is also advisable to have a climbing tree or playground for the bird to stay in the time when not staying in the cage. Diverse employment is also important in these places!

 Hygiene is important in parrot management

Unfortunately, cleaning cages and cage furnishings is often a very neglected detail when it comes to how we care for our companion birds. Many pet owners are content with cleaning the cage once a week. In the worst case, food and water bowls are also rarely cleaned.

Out in the wild, a bird rarely comes into contact with its droppings. In a small cage, the relationship is completely different. As the amount of spillage and food residues accumulate in the cage, the bacterial content in the bird's environment increases. As the stool dries, the bacteria become dispersed in the air around the bird and breathe in easily. Birds often sit and drill down heads and nostrils in food bowls. These often contain a mixture of old food and dried stools. There, the bird easily acquires a variety of bacteria and mold spores.

The cage must be cleaned daily. Remove the substrate material and reinsert. Clean food and water bowls, perches and other cage fittings. Once a week, the entire cage should also be wiped off from residue, feathers and other dirt. All details should also be disinfected at least once a month. For example, dilute chlorine or Hygisoft can be used. Rinse thoroughly afterwards.

Keep in mind that most of the infectious diseases that affect birds are caused by bacteria from the local environment!

Humidity

A healthy parrot can manage to live in our normal indoor environment. They can also stay outdoors during the summer. The biggest problem with our indoor environment is the dry air. Most parrot birds come from tropical or subtropical areas. They are created for a significantly higher  humidity. Dry indoor air can lead to respiratory illnesses and spring problems. To create a more humid indoor environment you can

• Get a humidifier.
• Have very green plants in the room.
• Put out small bowls of water here and there in the room.
• Showering

In addition, you should try to teach your bird to swim or showering. This should then be done daily. Some birds swim by themselves in a bird bath, a shallow bowl of water in. Other birds like to accompany the owner into the shower. Unfortunately, birds not trained to bathe or shower may be hysterically afraid of water. Then it is important to gently teach them to appreciate this. For example, you can use a flower spray sprayer set to the finest water vapor. Keep the syringe hidden so the bird does not see it. Spray so that the water vapor falls over the bird. Over time, you can increase the intensity of the "rain" and also show the bird syringe. Another way to trick the bird into showering may be to soak a salad head / cabbage head or the like in water. Then place or hang it on top of the cage. When the bird is biting and tearing into the vegetable, it simultaneously receives a natural shower.

UV illumination

UV lighting  is another important element that the birds have access to in their natural environment but lack indoors. UV light is especially important for the activation of vitamin D in the skin. Without vitamin D, the bird may be affected by calcium deficiency. Direct sunlight (not filtered through a glass pane) is, of course, the best and most natural source of UV light. In summer time it is therefore good if the bird is allowed to spend a lot of time outdoors. For birds that cannot enjoy true sunshine, you should instead acquire a UV fluorescent lamp to be hung above the cage, but preferably not more than 45-60 cm above the perch where the bird resides most.

Brightness

Parrot birds generally come from very sunny countries, where the  light intensity  is high. It is therefore important that the lighting is very good during the bird's waking hours in its surroundings. Our normal indoor lighting is usually quite subdued in comparison to what the birds require, and you should probably purchase one or more extra lamps to increase the light intensity near the bird. However, it is still important to make sure that the bird can choose to pull away bright light in a hidden corner, if it so wishes.

air quality

Air quality  is also important to consider. Birds have extremely effective respiratory organs, and all substances that are dispersed in our indoor air can also end up in the bird's airways. Birds are very sensitive to various substances that are spread via sprays, such as hairspray, perfume and cleaning products. A common cause of poisoning is also oset from burnt food, especially food fried in Teflon pans. Also keep in mind that cigarette smoke can be very harmful to the bird!

Parrot care advice

The parrot birds as companion birds come from widely different environments and continents. The following parrot management advice is therefore intended as a general description and advice on how to get your bird to thrive and stay healthy. However, differences exist between different species. The best way for you to take good care of your bird is to investigate the bird's native environment. You can then offer the best possible ambient temperature, humidity and feeding.

In general, it can be said that many companion birds unfortunately get pretty bad. Many pet owners find it difficult to get updated information. Therefore, the birds are often managed according to advice and guidelines that came a long time ago. Much of the old information that was available was based on how fowl would be managed. Now we know that there are big differences between the needs of the chicken birds and parrot birds.

Also, many pet owners unfortunately buy a pet parrot without really realizing what this means.

• If you buy a parrot, you must have realistic expectations from the start, and understand that:
• Parrots are by nature noisy. Especially at dawn and dusk it is quite natural for the bird to use the voice.
• They're scraping down. The beak is the bird's third hand. It is used to examine and decompose objects in the environment to search for edible parts and to activate itself.
• Parrots are social animals and need close contact with either species relatives or their owners.

The parrot thus places great demands on its owner. The new bird, which initially received a lot of attention, over time becomes a "piece of furniture" that you spend at least five minutes from time to time. If the bird is then not given enough stimulation and employment, it can quickly develop unwanted behaviors. It can be screaming, biting and spring picking. This often leads to the animal owner getting tired of the bird, which is sold on from home to home.

Parrot care advice - the cage

A parrot requires great freedom of movement. It needs to have an outlet for its desire to climb or fly. Therefore, it would be best to have a large aviary for the bird. Alternatively, it can be left loose in a room. However, most birds also have a security need and therefore need a cage where it can pull away and be at peace.

The cage must of course be as large as possible. Especially if the bird will spend most of the time trapped in the cage. The width should at least be double to the wing width of the bird. It should be able to stretch the wings properly. For a bird with a long tail, the cage must also be quite high so that the tail feathers are not damaged. According to the Animal Protection Act, a coniferous cage must not be less than 50 dm 2.  It can therefore be at least eg 50 x 100 cm in size. For a nymph cockatoo, the cage must not be less than 150 dm 2 , ie 100 x 150 cm. A macaw must have a cage of at least 640 dm 2  . That is to say, almost like an ordinary bedroom!

The parrot needs security

Keep in mind that a bird is still basically a wild animal placed in an unnatural environment. In nature, the bird must always be on guard against possible dangers. Our companion birds can also be extremely disturbed by various factors in the environment. It is important to place and decorate the cage with this in mind. The cage is the bird's home and safe point. It is important that the bird should not be exposed to scary or harmful impressions, such as:

• Other pets immediately near the cage, especially not above the cage.
• Lights and shadows at night, eg from car headlights outdoors.
• Intense sunlight from a window.
• Intense "running" of family members within a meter of the cage.
• Turn on lighting and high sound volume more than 10-12 hours per day.

It is therefore important to find a suitable place for the cage. The bird should be able to participate in the family's activities without being stressed. It should not be intimidated by animals either inside the home or outside. And it should not be exposed to strong sunshine.

Individually how the birds want it

Birds are individuals just like we humans. Some birds love to be in the center where everything happens. The cage can then be placed in the kitchen or living room. It may also be appropriate to have a separate sleeping cage as well. It can be placed in a room where the bird gets 10-12 hours of undisturbed sleep at night. Other birds are more timid and are easily stressed by the impressions of windows, TV or visitors in the home. These birds often feel better if the cage is placed in a bedroom, for example. Then the bird can sometimes spend shorter periods of time on a tree or a climbing post in other rooms.

The bird should be able to regulate how much it wants to pull away. Therefore, the cage should contain a part where the bird can pull away. Either part of the cage can be furnished with separating walls. Or the cage can be placed in a corner and one of the free sides is covered with a wall. The main thing is that the bird has a corner to pull away to where it feels safe and hidden. However, do not make the mistake of inserting a nest as a private corner, except in cases where you really want to try to get chicks. A nest in the cage is a call for the parrot to start laying eggs. It can often lead to illness problems.